Sailing Trip Diavolo
Two weeks — 450 n.m. — Portisco – Sardinia round-trip — Portisco
This sailing trip is the more exacting among all, so we suggest it for those well experienced crews and for boats over 40 feet. The Sardinia round trip ask you for a day-mean distance of 35 n.m. per day, therefore crew members have to love long sailing. Along this route you will have the chance to visit very ancient and different places and cultures, wilde and desert spots. At the end of the journey, once you leaved the boat, the luggage of emotions and rememberings will be very big.
1° day: Portisco – Cala di Trana — Castelsardo 57 n.m.
Your first sailing will be between the islands of the Arcipelago della Maddalena and Sardinia. You can have a quick stop in Cala di Trana, west of Punta Sardegna. The name of this bay is not usually indicated on most of the sea charts, but you can recognize it from the high sand dunes on its westerly side. Cala di Trana is sheltered from southerly winds and it is 18 n.m. away from Portisco, about 3 hours sailing. If weather conditions doesn’t fit this bay (often swelly), you can go to Cala Corsara, just in front on Spargi island, sheltered from northern and westerly winds. Then you will have to sail for 39 n.m. heading for Castelsardo: more than 6 hours. We advise you to call the harbour offices by telephone at 079-471119, in order to announce your arrival and to ask for the berth availability.
Castelsardo is the last name that this village had in his tricky story. The castle was built around year 1102 by the Doria family, with its ligurian origin, bringing the name of Castel Genovese, but in the year 1448, after a long attack, it was conquered by the spanish who changed the name only in the year 1520 in Castel Aragonese. In year 1767 name changed again in the final Castelsardo. All this cultures in the centuries created a very mixed and amazing local culture that gives to Castelsardo a particular charme.
2° day: Castelsardo – Alghero 65 n.m.
Today is the longest sailing so we suggest to loose moorings early. The most experienced crews can head for the beach of La Pelosa, wich is 23 n.m. away, less than 4 hours. The shelter of this beach offers a spectacular landscape: white sand, crystal green-blue waters, together with l’isola Piana and its ancient tower, are the reasons why this spot is one of the most photegraphed to advise Sardinia abroad.
Leaving from here you can sail across the Passo dei Fornelli (Fornelli sound); it is very exacting, can be done only in day light and good weather from a very experienced skipper; anyway we strongly reccomend to look carefully at the sea charts and harbour book. Following this way Alghero is 37 n.m. away, a bit more than 6 hours.
If you don’t sail through the Fornelli sound, your route will be different since Castelsardo, heading directly for Punta dello Scorno, north of Asinara island, and then straight to Alghero; in this case you will sail for 65 n.m. in about 11 hours. We advise you to call the harbour offices by telephone at 339-7329921, or by VHF channel 9, in order to announce your arrival and to ask for the berth availability. The ligurian family Doria, the same of Castelsardo, arrived in Alghero in year 1102, and decided to build their high walls on the southern cape of the port. The ancient latin name of “Aleguerium” is in the family documents, probably because the area is reach with seagrass (“alghe” in italian). Alghero became a very strategic and important port, and this is the reason why many war attacks were driven against it by the “Pisani” and the “Catalano-Aragonesi”; they won the sea battle in year 1353 outside Porto Conte and conquered the city. The next year Pietro IV d’Aragona, named “il Cerimonioso” , took Alghero with the Aragona Crown and pushed away sardinian and ligurian people, bringing the Catalani and Aragonesi (spanish people). Then after 4 centuries, in 1720, the Savoia family took Alghero together with all Sardinia.
The past made Alghero very beautiful and full of cultural contrasts: architecture is both ligurian and spanish; the local language is more similar to ancient spanish, and no far away from the city you can visit the Palmavera nuraghe, from year 1000 b.c. The most recent history, at the beginning of th 20th century, have seen the arrival of many coral fishermen from Campania (Naples, southern Italy), where coral begun to be poor in quantity. Since then, between March and October many coral boats arrive in the port, and jewerly can be seen in many shops in town.
3° day: Alghero – Punta Poglina – Bosa 21 n.m.
The westerly sardinian coast doesn’t offer many shelters, being opened to dominant wind here: the north westerly mistral. For that reason it is particularly reccommended to hear at the weather forecasts before sailing, between the island of Asinara and the island of San Pietro, in the south. Out of Alghero you will sail south to anchor after 5 n.m. near Punta Poglina.
Then you will keep sailing south, heading for Bosa, wich is 16 n.m. away. We advise you to call the harbour offices by telephone at 0785-375550, or by VHF channel 14, in order to announce your arrival and to ask for the berth availability. Bosa was founded by the Phoenicians around the IX century b.c.; from then it developed on the Temo River shores, the only river possible to sail in Sardinia.
In year 1112 Bosa was assigned to the ligurian family of Malaspina, wich begun the construction of the castle on the Serravalle hill; then followed a prosperity period for the city, wich developed mainly on the river shores. The Malaspina Castle dominate still today the landscape here, together with the tiny streets and the river, making Bosa absolutely unique in Sardinia.
4° day: Bosa – Cala Saline – Oristano 35 n.m.
Leaving Bosa you will head south along the westerly coast of Sardinia; the shelter of Cala Saline is immediately after Capo Mannu and it is a good shelter from northern and easterly winds; it is a 18 n.m. sailing. Then you will head for Oristano gulf, passing through Isola di Maldiventre and Sardinia, to get you moorings in the port of Torregrande after 17 n.m. We advise you to call the harbour offices by telephone at 0783-22189, or by VHF channel 9, in order to announce your arrival and to ask for the berth availability. If weather is good you could even overnight in the free moorings 4 n.m. before Torregrande, under the ancient city of Tharros: the shelter is good with northern winds and bottom is good.
Tharros was founded by the Phoenicians around VIII century b.c.; they used it as a shelter for their ships sailing for trade between their country (the actual Siria) and Spain. Tharros was then conquered by the Cartagines and Romans: the Romans used Tharros as an holiday place for their reachest families.
What is more astonishing of this ancient city, is how modern and smart is its project, having as its downtown the port, with fresh water facilities everywhere. The end of the old Tharros was made by the Saracen pirates, who terrorized the sardinian coasts around year 900 a.c., pushing local populations to the inner territories. Between the Tirso river (the longer in Sardinia) and Santa Giusta lake was built the city of Oristano. The best period for this city was around year 1350, when Mariano IV first, and his daughter Eleonora d’Arborea after, had a long period of authonomy in politics and law, so much to drive decisions for the dominating of the “Aragonesi” in whole Sardinia. Eleonora d’Arborea wrote the famous “Carta de Logu” in year 1392, a sum of laws to rule social and civil life, trades and fields production; in year 1421 the “Carta De Logu” took effect in the whole Sardinia, and remains in force until year 1827; still now it is recognized as a model of equity and justice.
5° day: Oristano – Cala Domestica – Carloforte 49 n.m.
From Oristano you will head for Carloforte; this island, together with Calasetta just in front of it on the Sant’Antioco island, is the most typical ligurian village in Sardinia; on the way you can have a stop in Cala Domestica, 33 n.m. south of Oristano. The bay is sheltered from the eastern and southern winds, but is totally opened to north westerly wind, mistral, when it became really dangerous. Cala Domestica is 16 n.m. away from Carloforte. We advise you to call the harbour offices by telephone at 0781-854437, or by VHF channel 15, in order to announce your arrival and to ask for the berth availability. The island of San Pietro have been nearly desert until year 1738 when the “Tabarkini” arrived.
Their history is tricky: in the first half of the XVI century the noble family of Lomellini decided to build their high walls on the desert island of Tabarka, in the north of Tunisie. Some coral fishermen were sent there from Pegli (near Genova, Liguria) to fish coral. After 200 years coral resources were ending, and Tabarka became to little for a grow-up population at same time; furthermore, local african people sometimes attacked this colony, so this ligurian people was not safe anymore there. In year 1738 most of them sailed to San Pietro island where they founded the city of Carloforte, and some years later on the island of Sant’Antioco, where they founded the city of Calasetta. Today the local language is still ligurian, with a strong portuguese accent (it was the international trade language of the past centuries), and the foods are an amazing mix between african and ligurian traditions.
6° day: Carloforte – Cala Lunga – Teulada 31 n.m.
Leaving Carloforte you will sail between the islands of San Pietro and Sant’Antioco, to arrive at Cala Lunga after 8 n.m. Along the route for Teulada you will have to watch out for the military sailing restrictions, through the harbour book and VHF advises. East of the restricted area there is the port of Teulada, wich is 23 n.m. away from Cala Lunga.
7° day: Teulada – Baia di Chia – Cagliari Marina Piccola 33 n.m.
The shelter of Chia is 9 n.m. away of Teulada; there is a long beach with sandy dunes, the shelter is good from northern and north westerly winds. The route for the port of Marina Piccola in Cagliari is 24 n.m. long. We advise you to call the harbour offices by telephone at 070-6051940, or by VHF channel 74, in order to announce your arrival and to ask for the berth availability. The port is on the west end of the Poetto beach, 9 km. Long, and is 6 km. away from the city centre. Cagliari is the main city in Sardinia with an old history that made it beautiful. City was founded from the Phoenicians around the IX century b.c. with the name of Karalis, then followed the Cartaginies until year 238 b.c., when Romans came and made a real city with around 20.000 inhabitants, fresh water facilities, streets and squares. Then the Bizantinies and Vandali followed, and in year 1015 a.c. Arabians came; Karalis asked for help to Genova (Liguria) and Pisa, who joined the Sardinians and blowed away Arabians definitely in year 1016 in a ship battle. The consequence was the fight between Genova and Pisa for the leadership in Sardinia: Pisa won and to increase security started to build their high walls around the Castel, still today there. In spite of all those protections and the towers of Elefante and San Pancrazio, Pisa lost the city against the Aragonesi in year 1324; they attacked the year before the city staying in the hill today called Bonaria. The legend say that during a storm a spanish ship was sailing between Spain and Sardinia, and that its captain ordered to throw at sea everything, including a Madonna di Bonaria image, the protector of all sailormen, in order to save its crew: as the image touched the sea storm stopped suddenly and ship was safe. When religious staying in that hill during tha attack, found the image in the sea just in front of them, they intitled the Sanctuary to her. Today “La Basilica di Bonaria”, that you can clearly see approaching Cagliari by sea, is the biggest and most beautiful church in the city. The Aragonesi went around year 1700, when with Utrecht agreement Sardinia were put under Austria.
The London Act on 2nd August 1718 gave birth to the Sardinian kingdom, Vittorio Amedeo di Savoia was its first king. From then Sardinia will be deeply linked with Piemonte Kingdom and all facts wich brought to united Italy.
8° day: Cagliari – Geremeas – Villasimius 18 n.m.
From Marina Piccola you will sail first near the Sella del Diavolo (the Devil seat), the cape over Marina Piccola, and then towards Geremeas shelter, 10 n.m. away. Next stop will be in Villasomius port: watch out for the shallow at the entrance.
We advise you to call the harbour offices by telephone at 070-7978128, or by VHF channel 9, in order to announce your arrival and to ask for the berth availability. The village is about 8 km. away from the port and in peak season is crowded, better to take a taxi to get there.
9° day: Villasimius – Cala di Sinzias – Porto Corallo 26 n.m.
Leaving Villasimius you will sail between Capo Carbonara and island of Cavoli, at the south easterly end of Sardinia; from here your route will head basically north towards Portisco. Immediately after Capo Carbonara watch out for the Sant’Elmo rocks, not signaled, and the shallow of Berni, signaled by a concret buoy: both of them have to be left on your left.
Cala di Sinzias is 10 n.m. away from Villasimius, the shelter is good from westerly and southerly winds; in case of northerly wind or mistral, it is better to anchor a little south in Cala Pira. From above shelters it is possible to reach the nuraghe Sinzias, wich dominates the coast from 150 mt. on the sea level. Porto Corallo is 16 n.m. away from Cala Sinzias. We advise you to call the harbour offices by telephone at 070-997013, or by VHF channel 9, in order to announce your arrival and to ask for the berth availability.
10° day: Porto Corallo – Santa Foxi Manna – Arbatax 32 n.m.
The 32 n.m. between Porto Corallo and Arbatax can be divided in 2 legs of 16 n.m. each. In the morning you will reach the shelter of Santa Foxi Manna, 1 n.m. south of Capo Sferracavallo, not signaled on the sea charts, in spite being the only good shelter from westerly winds. Keeping heading north for 16 n.m. you will arrive in the port of Arbatax. We advise you to call the harbour offices by telephone at 0782-667405, or by VHF channel 9, in order to announce your arrival and to ask for the berth availability.
11° day: Arbatax – Cala di Luna – La Caletta di Siniscola 47 n.m.
Today you can get your anchorage in one of the most beautiful places of the whole Mediterranean Sea: Cala di Luna; we suggest you therefore to leave Arbatax early in the morning, having enough time worth to enjoy this paradise, where the beach have two shores, one on the sea, one on the inner fresh water. Flowers here in springtime are lush and hardly coloured, and the caves watching the sea from the beach gives a kind of magic here.
This is the other one of the most photographed places in Sardinia. Arbatax is 19 n.m. away from Cala di Luna, and 28 n.m. from La Caletta di Siniscola. Cala di Luna is not a shelter, so overnight there is not possible. The port of Siniscola is recent and the village tiny. We advise you to call the harbour offices by telephone at 0784-810631, or by VHF channel 9, in order to announce your arrival and to ask for the berth availability.
12° day: La C. di Siniscola – C. Spalmatore – Porto Taverna 20 n.m.
Cala Spalmatore di terra is located on the westerly end of Tavolara island and is made from a sandy stripe. After leaving La Caletta di Siniscola you will arrive there after 18 n.m. Tavolara is a very particular island, easy to recognize from far away; it is 4 n.m. long and ½ n.m. wide, 560 mt. high. The shelter there is good from the northern winds with a sandy bottom; a restaurant is on the beach serving typical sea food. You may hear speaking about the king of Tavolara once on the beach: it’s not a joke but the story of Giuseppe Bertoleoni and his son Paolo, the only inhabitants of the island who welcomed in year 1815 Gioacchino Murat Re di Napoli and in year 1829 Carlo Alberto Prince of Carignano.
This last one to thank for berthing gave the property of Tavolara to Paolo Bertoleoni, who became the first king of Tavolara. In Buckingham Palace, London, between the other kings of the worlds, there is the image of Paolo I king of Tavolara, the smallest kingdom in the world. The shelter of Porto Taverna is just 2 n.m. south west of Cala Spalmatore and it is good to overnight in the free moorings.
13° day: Porto Taverna – Cala Moresca – Portisco 16 n.m.
Leaving Porto Taverna you will keep the small island of Reulino on your left and the small island of Spalmatore on your right, heading north for the island of Figarolo wich is 8 n.m. away. The shelter of Cala Moresca is north east of Figarolo, in spite of its beautiness it is not very crowded.
Then you will head for Portisco, wich is 8 n.m. away from Cala Moresca. We advise you to call the harbour offices by telephone at 0789-33520, or by VHF channel 69, in order to announce your arrival and to ask for the berth availability.
These last miles are thats closing your Sardinia round trip, 450 n.m. in 13 days. During this journey you have visited desert places and colourful different villages, ancient cities and modern and fashionable Marinas: that’s Sardinia, a land made from hard contrasts, smells and emotions.